ket is well supplied. This is the place called Magnisia ad Sypilum. Magnisia ad Meandrum, more celebrated in ancient history than this place, is situated on the Meander, between Ephesus and Laodicea. It is now called Guzel-hissar. That is the town which was given to Themistocles, to procure bread for his table.

na.

"21. Left Magnisia at half after seven for SmyrAt nine we left the plain of the Hermus and entered a narrow valley, in which a small rivulet descends from mount Sypilus-rode half an hour along the stream, and then began to ascend the mountain. This is the first mountain which we have had occasion to cross during our tour. A little before eleven, we reached the summit. Here we had anticipated a delightful and extensive view. But the heavy fog completely disappointed our expectations; and we could but just discern the distant summits of Tmolus, Pagus, and the Two Brothers. At half past eleven we stopped to dine at a Greek tavern, near a small village. While we were eating, a Turkish janizary came in, and ate his dinner, and drank with it, at least a pint of raki (brandy.) Such is the regard which Turks pay to the laws of their religion, when no other Mahommedans are present.

"Leaving Bournabat on our right, and Hadgilar on the left, we reached Smyrna between four and five. The Messrs. Van Lennep's bade us welcome, and invited us to take a room in their house,' and a seat at their table, until their families return from their country seat.

"In this journey, we were absent from Smyrna 21 days, and rode about 100 hours, probably 300 miles. In time of sickness, the Lord has healed us. In time of danger, he has defended us. In time of doubt, he has guided us. We have had opportunity to sow some precious seed. It may lie buried long, in the earth; but the crop we trust is insured."

At a subsequent period Mr. Fisk made a visit to Ephesus. On his way he passed through a village called Aiasaluck, where he supposes the Greek Christians settled, after Ephesus was destroyed. He there visited the church of St. John, now deserted and in ruins, having been occupied as a mosque after the country fell into the hands of the Mahommedans. In this church he saw some immensely large pillars of granite, said to have been taken from the temple of Diana; having thus served successively, as he remarks, in a Pagan, a Christian, and a Mahommedan place of worship. Leaving this place he rode to Mount Prion, and thence set out on foot in company with a number of gentlemen from Smyrna to visit the ruins of the renowned Ephesus, which he thus describes.

"The ground was covered," says he, "with high grass or grain, and a very heavy dew rendered the walking rather unpleasant. On the east side of the hill we found nothing worthy of notice; no appearance of having been occupied for buildings. On the north side was the Circus or stadium. Its length from east to west is forty rods, or one stadium. The north or lower side was supported by arches which still remain. The area where the races used to be performed is now a field of wheat. At the west end was the gate. The walls adjoining it are still standing, and of considerable height and strength. North of the stadium, and separated only by a street, is a large square inclosed with fallen walls and filled with the ruins of various edifices. A street running north and south divides this square in the centre. West of the stadium is an elevation of ground, level on the top, with an immense pedestal in the centre of it. What building stood there it is not easy to say. Between this and the stadium was a street passing from the great plain north of Ephesus into the midst of the city.

"I found on the plains of Ephesus some Greek peasants, men and women, employed in pulling up tares and weeds from the wheat. It reminded me of Matt. xiii, 28. I addressed them in Romaic, but found they understood very little of it, as they usually answered me in Turkish. I ascertained, however, that they all belonged to villages at a distance, and came there to labor. Not one of them could read, but they said, there were priests and a schoolmaster in the village to which they belonged, who could read. I gave them some Tracts, which they promised to give to their priest and schoolmaster. Tournefort says, that when he was at Ephesus there were thirty or forty Greek families there. Chandler found only ten or twelve individuals. Now no human being lives in Ephesus; and in Aiasaluck, which may be considered as Ephesus under another name, though not on precisely the same spot of ground, there are merely a few miserable Turkish huts. The candlestick is removed out of his place. 'How doth the city sit solitary that was full of people.'

"While wandering among the ruins, it was impossible not to think, with deep interest, of the events which have transpired on this spot. Here has been displayed, from time to time, all the skill of the architect, the musician, the tragedian, and the orator. Here some of the most splendid works of man have been seen in all their glory, and here the event has shown their transitory nature. How interesting would it be to stand among these walls, and have before the mind a full view of the history of Ephesus from its first foundation till now! We might observe the idolatrous and impure rites, and the cruel and bloody sports of Pagans succeeded by the preaching, the prayers, the holy and peaceable lives of the first Christians-these Christians martyred, but their religion still triumphing-pagan rites and pagan sports abolished, and the simple worship of Christ instituted in their room. We might see the

city conquered and reconquered, destroyed and rebuilt, till finally Christianity, arts, learning, and prosperity, all vanish before the pestiferous breath of 'the only people whose sole occupation has been to destroy.'

"The plain of Ephesus is now very unhealthy, owing to the fogs and mist which almost continually rest upon it. The land, however, is rich, and the surrounding country is both fertile and healthy. The adjacent hills would furnish many delightful situations for villages, if the difficulties were removed which are thrown in the way by a despotic government, oppressive agas, and wandering banditti."

CHAPTER VI.

FROM THE TIME WHEN HIS COMPANION LEFT HIM FOR JUDEA TILL THEIR RE-UNION AT SMYRNA.

AFTER mature deliberation and much prayer, it was judged, that the interests of the mission would be promoted by a temporary separation, during which Mr. Fisk should remain at Smyrna, pursuing study, and making researches in the vicinity, and his colleague travel in Judea, visit Jerusalem, and make inquiries respecting the most eligible place for a permanent missionary establishment. In reference to this contemplated separation the journal of Mr. Fisk is continued as follows:

66

Smyrna, Nov. 29, 1820. Devoted the day to fasting and prayer. It had, for some time, been a question, whether one of us ought not to remain some longer in Smyrna, and the other proceed without further delay to Judea. It is desirable that some one should be here to carry on the work of distribution, and to get more Tracts printed at Constantinople, or Scio. Till a chaplain arrives, he can occupy these rooms, and preach in the chapel on

the Sabbath; and the Messrs. Van Lenneps have generously offered, in case one of us sees fit to remain, to give him his board. The state of things here is such, that we cannot feel willing to leave the place; and we are not willing to have our visit to Jerusalem delayed any longer. If only one of us goes, he will have an interpreter who understands English, a faithful man, and a good nurse in case of sickness. As to missionary labor and research, probably one may do about as much, at least during the present season, as both could do. On the whole it seems, so far as we can judge, that the interests of our mission are likely to be most effectually promoted by a temporary separation. We contemplate it with reluctance; but our rising murmurs are hushed by contrasting our case with the separation, to which our brethren were called who first went to India. We hope to be again united, after a short time, to prosecute the original plan of our mission.

"Dec. 5. In the afternoon carried the baggage of Mr. Parsons on board the vessel. All are to be on board at eight o'clock, expecting to sail in the night. It is now thirteen months since we sailed from Boston. During this period we have spent every day and every night together. Thus far the Lord has prospered and blessed us. We should be ungrateful not to trust him for the future. We shall be separated, for a time, from each other, but we hope not to be separated from Him, 'who sticketh closer than a brother.'

"6. Last evening Mr. Parsons left me to go to Judea. We went on board the vessel together. There we sung,

'Guide me, O thou great Jehovah,'

united in prayer, commended each other to the divine protection, and gave the parting hand. To be separated from my only Christian brother, is a trial indeed. But we have not come to this land to seek