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"About sunset arrived at Negadel, on the west bank. The greater part of the inhabitants are Copts. Waited on the roumus. He read the patriarch's letter, and looked at our books; but said they had already a plenty. He paid us no farther attention, but soon walked away. We sold a Testament and a Psalter, and then a priest named Antonio invited us to his house. He had an Arabic Bible, which he received from Mr. Jowett, whose name he remembered. He said he had read the whole of it, and was much pleased with it. Sold a few more books, and exchanged a few for Arabic and Coptic manuscripts. The conduct of the roumus was undoubtedly the cause of our selling so few. We will not even conjecture, whether his conduct arose from a natural incivility of disposition, or from religious bigotry, or from ignorance, or a mistaken opinion of our design. “To his own Master he standeth or falleth.'
28. About sunset we arrived at Thebes, in twentytwo days from Cairo. Here we met with two companies of travellers; one on their way to Assouan, consisting of a Polish baron, whom we knew in Cairo, one Englishman, and one German; the other company are returning from Dongola, and consists of a Russian count and two Germans. In the evening these gentlemen called on us in company with Mr. Rifand, a Frenchman, who has been here several years engaged in researches.
March 1. “We called on the Coptic priest Makar. He bought a Testament, and the book of Genesis, and told us there were sixty Coptic houses in the Luxor, and three priests. Many persons were present, but none of them could read.
"In the afternoon, we took a view of the temple of Luxor. Before the principal gate-way are two immense statues of granite in a bad state of preseryation. The body of each statue is about nine feet in diameter, from side to side. One of them has an
obelisk at its back, of the same height, and covered with hieroglyphics. The other is supported by a large granite slab. Before the statues are two obelisks like those of Alexandria and HieropoJis. The wall is standing, about fifty or sixty feet high. From the top of it we had a good view of the village. We saw the stupendous ruins of this ancient temple; around it immense heaps of rubbish; and in the midst of the ruins and rubbish, one hundred and fifty or two hundred mud huts. Such, indeed, is the appearance of these huts, that you scarcely seem to be in an inhabited village. The temple seems to have consisted of two principal parts, one near the gate we have mentioned, and the other connected with it by a passage now indicated by two rows of columns, seven in a row, each about thirty feet in circumference, built of stones four feet thick. Beyond these columns are a variety of apartments, the walls of which are covered with hieroglyphics; and there are in all not less than one hundred and fifty, or two hundred columns of different forms, sizes, and heights. In these apartments without doubt, were once offered
“Yesterday we made known our wish to take lodgings for a few days on shore. To-day we heard of a house belonging to the government, which might be had. In the evening we went to look at it. In the lower apartment we found some Arabs sitting on the ground at supper. There was a jackass in the same room. Passing by them we came to the stairs. Three or four of the steps were broken down, so as to render it almost impossible to ascend. On reaching the top, we found the floor of the rooms was made thus:-Beams of the palmtree supported small branches of the same and reeds, and these were covered with earth, so that the chamber floors had nearly the same appearance, as the streets.' In the first room the branches
which supported the earth, having given away, there were several holes so large that we got over them with difficulty, and, on entering another room, we found the floor so weak, that it shook under our feet, and we dared to walk across it only with a very cautious step. In this situation our light was extinguished, and we had some apprehensions about our return, until an Arab brought us another light. Each room had large windows which were entirely open. The roof was of bushes and had several apertures, some of them large.---Such was the house offered us in Thebes; and probably it would not have been easy to procure a better. After looking at this, we resolved on remaining in our cabin, though it was small and much infested with vermin.
“Sabbath, 2. In the morning we read the Scriptures in Romaic to our servant, and gave him religious instruction. We then spent a season in social worship. On this occasion we read from the journal of Brainerd an account of his conversion and trials. We were led to contrast this monument of Brainerd and his character with the character of Busiris, Osymandias, Cesostris, Cheops, and Cephrenes, and the monuments which they raised to perpetuate their glory. All their cities, mausoleums, temples, and pyramids, seemed insignificant, compared with the crown of glory which Brainerd won. They shall perish; most of them indeed have perished already; but this shall remain forever.
“3. Visited the temple of Carnac. It is a halfhour's ride from Luxor. We spent about four hours in looking at its ruins. We entered by a gateway, on the south side, and near the west end of the temple. In coming up to the gate, we passed between two rows of Sphinxes, fifty in a row.
Some were almost entirely destroyed, and the heads were broken off from them all. Those that were most entire, had each a statue of some god before it, and of the same piece with itself. We then came to the outer
gate. The whole column is forty feet square, and, as nearly as we could judge, seventy high. The passage is eighteen feet wide. From this we advanced between two rows of sphinxes, ten in a row, about forty paces to a second gate, which opened into an apartment where stood thirty columns, twenty feet in circumference. Passing a third gate we entered another apartment, in which are eight similar columns. We then came apparently to the end of these ruins, and found ourselves among the dirty huts, which now compose the village of Carnac, and are inhabited by ignorant and miserable Arabs, all Mussulmans. The number of dogs was to all appearance nearly equal to that of human beings. Advancing two hundred paces, we came to an immense pile of walls, columns, &c. This is the most interesting and magnificent part of the temple.”
Mr. Fisk has given a minute description of this part of the temple--the magnificent apartments, large columns, statues, sphinxes, and obelisks, connected with this immense pile, and thus concludes:
“The extent of the temple from the south gate to the north is about six hundred and sixty paces, and from the east to the west, about five hundred and twenty. The walls are very thick, and generally covered with hieroglyphics, We are sensible this is but a very imperfect description of what remains of the temple of Jupiter at Carnac. Ruins so stupendous, after the lapse of three or four thousand years, show that the temple, in the time of its glory, must have been magnificent beyond conception. But as these walls and columns are now falling and perishing, so all human glory will soon fade and wither in the dust. But there is a Temple, whose columns shall never fall, and whose glory shall never fade; whose worship shall never cease, and whose inhabitants shall never die: O that when all earthly temples and palaces shall be buried in one
universal ruin, our spirits may be found worshippers in that imperishable temple.
"4. Luxor and Carnac include what remains of Thebes, on the east side of the Nile. At an early hour we fell down the river a little way in our boat, passed to the other side, took jack-asses, (without saddles, or bridles) and rode to Gornon, about one hour from the river. We stopped at the house of Mr. John Athanasius, to whom we had a letter from Mr. Salt. He is a Greek, and has spent several years at Thebes, making excavations, and searching for antiquities, in the employ of Mr. Salt. He lived sometime in a tomb, and then built a house over it, which he now inhabits. He spent the day in showing us the antiquities of the place. We set out first to see the tombs of the kings. In our way we passed over a high mountain. The east side of it, is called Hieropolis, is full of grottos, from many of which mummies have been taken.
These are now inhabited by Arabs. From the top of the mountain we had a fine view of the plain of Thebes, with all its wonderful antiquities. We descended the mountain, and reached the tombs in an hour after leaving the house. We first entered the tomb, which was opened by Belzoni and others in the employ of Mr. Salt, in 1817, and which is therefore called Mr. Salt's. We entered by an avenue eight or nine feet wide, and about as high, descended twenty eight short stairs, then walked thirteen paces still descending, then twenty-five more stairs, then eighteen paces which brought us to the first set of chambers consisting of three apartments, one eighteen feet by fifteen, and the others thirty feet square, and ten or twelve high. Then descending eighteen stairs and ten paces, we came to a second set of rooms. The principal one was fifty feet by thirty. Here, when the tomb was opened, was a sarcophagus of alabaster, which has been removed to London, and is now in the museum. Adjoining