The History of SurfingThis in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is “meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading” (Outside Magazine). Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of Warshaw’s endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made surfing history happen. “The world’s most comprehensive chronicler of the surfing scene.” —Andy Martin, The Independent |
Contents
| 10 | |
| 15 | |
Gliding Return 19001945 | 38 |
Malibu Swing 1945late 1950s | 90 |
Boom YearsA Massive Swelling Late 1950s1967 | 152 |
Barefoot Revolution 19661974 | 235 |
The Fortune Seekers Early 1970s1980 | 297 |
The Long and the Short of It 19811991 | 347 |
The Ride of Your Life 19902009 | 412 |
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS | 478 |
| 479 | |
| 488 | |
| 490 | |
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Common terms and phrases
American Angeles Aussie Australian surf beachboys beachfront became began big-wave bigger Blake boardmaker boom Brown called Carroll champion Coast competition Curren decades dozen Duke Kahanamoku early Endless Summer event Farrelly feet film foam Fred hemmings Gerry Lopez Gidget goofyfooter Greenough Greg Noll guys Hawaii Hawaiian Hobie Honolulu huge island late later lifeguard lineup longboard looked Lopez Makaha Malibu McTavish Nat Young never North Shore noseriding Nuuhiwa ocean Pacific paddle Phil edwards Pipeline pros Quiksilver reef riders rode San Diego Santa Severson Shaun Tomson shortboard Simmons South Southern California sport Sunset Beach surf break Surf Club surf contest surf magazine surf movie surf-world surfboard surfers Surfin surfing’s surfjournalist Surfrider swell Sydney Tavarua teenage thing Tom Curren Tomson took tube tuberiding turn Velzy Waikiki Waimea wave-riding wetsuit who’d wipeout women’s World Championships world tour