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CHAPTER XIV.

Stream of "nine windings”— A Taouist priest - His house and temple - Du Halde's description of these hills Strange impressions of gigantic hands on the rocks-Tea-plants purchased - Adventure during the night - My visitors — Plants packed for a journey — Town of Tsin-tsun and its trade- Leave the Woo-e hills - Mountain scenery The lance-leaved pine-Rocks, ravines, and waterfalls-A lonely road-Trees-Birds and other animals-Town of She-pa-ky-Productions of the country - Uses of the Nelumbium -Pouching teas-City of Pouching-hien.

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We now proceeded across the hills in the direction of the small town of Tsin-tsun, another great mart for black tea. Our road was a very rough one. It was merely a footpath, and sometimes merely narrow steps cut out of the rock. When we had gone about two miles we came to a solitary temple on the banks of a small river, which here winds amongst the hills. This stream is called by the Chinese the river or stream of nine windings, from the circuitous turns which it takes amongst the hills of Woo-e-shan. It divides the range into two districts-the north and south the north range is said to produce the best teas. Here the finest souchongs and pekoes are produced, but I believe these rarely find their way to Europe, or only in very small quantities.

The temple we had now reached was a small and insignificant-looking building. It seemed a sort of half-way resting-place for people on the road from

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[A Chinese Bird's eye view of the Stream of "Nine Windings" and strange Rocks.]

CHAP. XIV.

A TAOUIST PRIEST.

241

Tsin-tsun to the hills; and when we arrived several travellers and coolies were sitting in the porch drinking tea. The temple belonged to the Taouists, and was inhabited by an old priest and his wife. The priests of this sect do not shave their heads like the Buddhists, and I believe are allowed to marry.

The old priest received us with great politeness, and, according to custom, gave me a piece of tobacco and set a cup of tea before me. Sing-Hoo now asked him whether he had a spare room in his house, and whether he would allow us to remain with him for a day or two. He seemed to be very glad of the chance of making a little money, and immediately led us up stairs to a room which, as we were not very particular, we agreed to hire during our stay.

This house and temple, like some which I have already described, were built against a perpendicular rock, which formed an excellent and substantial back wall to the building. The top of the rock overhung the little building, and the water from it continually dripping on the roof of the house gave the impression that it was raining.

The stream of "nine windings" flowed past the front of the temple. Numerous boats were plying up and down, many of which, I was told, contained parties of pleasure, who had come to see the strange scenery amongst these hills. The river was very rapid, and these boats seemed to fly when going with the current, and were soon lost to view. On all sides the strangest rocks and hills were observed, having generally a temple and tea-manufactory near their

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summits. Sometimes they seemed so steep that the buildings could only be approached by a ladder; but generally the road was cut out of the rock in steps, and by this means the top was reached.

Du Halde, in describing these hills, says, "The priests, the better to compass their design of making this mountain pass for the abode of the immortal beings, have conveyed barks, chariots, and other things of the same kind, into the clefts of the steep rocks, all along the sides of a rivulet that runs between, insomuch that these fantastical ornaments are looked upon by the stupid vulgar as real prodigies, believing it impossible that they could be raised to such inaccessible places but by a power more than human."

I did not observe any of these chariots; and if they exist at all, they must either have been made for the express purpose, or brought from some distant country, as none are in use in these parts. Boats are common enough on the river; and if they are drawn up into such places, the circumstance would not be so wonderful.

Some curious marks were observed on the sides of some of these perpendicular rocks. At a distance they seemed as if they were the impress of some gigantic hands. I did not get very near these marks, but I believe that many of them have been formed by the water oozing out and trickling down the surface. They did not seem artificial; but a strange appearance is given to these rocks by artificial means. Emperors and other great and rich men, when visit

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