passes within a quarter of a mile of them.-(Inns: Weber's (see p. 19), 10 minutes' walk from the fall.)-J.O.

These quarters are convenient for those who would enjoy the aspect of the cataract at different hours, at sunrise and by moonlight. It will take at least 2 hours to see the falls thoroughly, including the time occupied in crossing and recrossing the river. Close to the fall is an iron furnace; the wheels of the hammers are turned by the fall, and the draught caused by the rush of the waters supplies the place of bellows.

One mode of visiting the Falls from Schaffhausen is to hire a boat from thence (costs 48 kreutz), and descend the river, which already forms a succession of rapids, by no means dangerous under the guidance of a boatman accustomed to the river. When the increased celerity of the current and the audible roar announce that the skiff is approaching the falls, the steersman makes for the 1. bank, and lands his passengers under the picturesque castle of Lauffen, situated on a high rock overlooking the fall, within the Canton of Zürich. It is occupied and rented by an artist who speaks English, and charges 1 franc admission for each person. He has many pretty views of the Rhine, &c., for sale, also maps and guide-books.

The advantage of approaching the fall on this side is, that nothing is seen of it until it is at once presented in its most magnificent point of view, from the little pavilion perched on the edge of the cliff immediately above it. Its appearance from the opposite side of the river is tame in comparison, and the first impression from thence, made by the finest cataract in Europe, will most probably prove disappointing. Several flights of very rude stone and wooden steps conduct from this pavilion to a projecting stage, or rude balcony, of stout timbers, thrown out, like the bowsprit of a ship, from the vertical cliff to within a few feet of the fall. It actually overhangs the roaring shoot, and though perfectly secure seems to

tremble under the impulse of the water. Here, covered with the spray, the traveller may enjoy the full grandeur of this hell of waters; and it is only by this close proximity, amidst the tremendous roar and the uninterrupted rush of the river, passing with the swiftness of an arrow above his head and beneath his feet, that a true notion can be formed of the stupendous nature of this cataract. The best time for seeing the fall is about 8 in the morning, when the iris floats within the spray (provided the sun shines), and by moonlight. The river is usually most full in the month of July. The Rhine, above the fall, is about 300 feet broad; the height of the fall varies from 60 feet on one side to 45 on the other; but, including the rapids above, the entire descent is not less than 100 feet. Two isolated pillars of rock standing in the middle of the stream divide the fall into 3 shoots. Seen from behind, these pinnacles appear eaten away by the constant friction of the water, and tottering to their fall; yet, though the rock is soft, the waste of it within the memory of man has not been perceptible.

The river, after its leap, forms a large semicircular bay, as it were to rest itself; the sides of which are perpetually chafed by the heaving billows. Here, in front of the fall, on the rt. bank, stands the Castle of Wörth, a square tower, containing a camera obscura, which shows the fall in another and a very singular point of view. From this tower to the foot of the rock on which the castle of Lauffen stands, boats ply, to ferry visitors across, charging fr. each! The boats are much tossed about in their passage, but make it without risk, provided they keep clear of the eddies. "It is possible to reach the central rock in a boat from Schloss Wörth without danger; and those who have a steady head may ascend it, and view the fall from this vantageground."—B.

Schaffhausen to Constance.
91 leagues 27 English miles.

Diligence daily, along the S. or Swiss bank of the Rhine, in 5 hours.

A steamer 5 times a week, ascending the Rhine to Constance in 6 or 8 hours against the current; descending in 3 or 4 hours. It passes under 3 bridges, lowering its chimney. Cuisine on board bad. It does not take carriages.

The journey may be made more expeditiously by following the road through Baden, on the N. side of the Rhine, because it is provided with post-horses, than along the Swiss side of the river, though the Swiss road is shorter.

The relays (in Germ. miles) are-1 Randegg. Here is the Baden Custom-house. Beyond this is passed Singen(Inn, poor and extortionate). Near this place you pass at the foot of Hohentwiel. The castle is now dismantled. The lofty rock upon which it stands gives it the appearance of an Indian hill-fort.

23 Radolfszell—(Inn: Poste, good) -a desolate town, with a fine church, in the true German-Gothic style.

The scenery throughout the whole of this road is exceedingly agreeable, often striking. The woods abound in most splendid butterflies. Collections of these insects may be bought at Singen, and also at Radolfszell.

The Rhine here, suddenly contracted from a lake to a river, is crossed by a wooden bridge, in order to reach

3 Constance. (In the next page.) The Swiss Road (5 hours' drive, baiting the horses) runs along the 1. bank of the Rhine, past the Nunneries of Paradies and Katherinethal, the former belonging to the order of St. Clara, the latter of St. Dominic; but the revenues and the number of sisters in both are now much reduced. The Austrian army under the Archduke Charles crossed the Rhine at Paradies 1799,

2 Diessenhofen-(Inn: Adler). Wagenhausen-(Inn: Ochse, clean

and fair).

[1. A little off the road lies

Stein-(Inns: Schwan; Krone) -a town of 1270 Inhab., on the rt,

bank of the Rhine, belonging to Schaffhausen, united by a wooden bridge with a suburb on the 1. bank. The Abbey of St. George is a very ancient ecclesiastical foundation. The owners of the ruined castle of Hohenklingen, situated on the rocky height, were originally the feudal seigneurs of the town, but the citizens obtained independence from their masters by purchase.

3 miles E. of Stein, at a height of between 500 and 600 feet above the Rhine, are situated the Quarries of Ehningen, remarkable for the vast abundance of fossil remains of terrestrial and fresh-water animals found in them, including mammalia, birds, reptiles, fishes, shells, insects, and plants, some of them identical with species now living. The most curious discovery is that of the perfect skeleton of a fossil fox, made by Sir Roderick Murchison: a very large tortoise had previously been brought to light. The beds of rock in which the quarries are worked consist of marls, limestones, shales, and building-stone. They lie immediately above the formation called Molasse, and differ in their organic contents from all other fresh-water formations hitherto discovered.]

Above Stein the Rhine expands into a lake called Untersee (lower lake) connected again by the Rhine at its upper extremity with the large Lake of Constance. In the midst of it is the pretty island Reichenau. Feldbach, also a nunnery, belonging to sisters of the Cistercian order, is passed before reaching

2 Steckborn, "In the broad part of the Rhine, where it is still rather a lake than a river, is the Isle of Reichenau, anciently famed for a Monastery founded by one of the successors of Charlemagne, of which the Church (partly Romanesque) and Treasury remain. In the Treasury are to be seen the shrine of St. Fortunata, an ivory ciborium, a cope, a crozier, and a missal of the xth century."-F.S.

Itznang, a small village on the opposite shore of the river, within the territory of Baden, is the birthplace of Mesmer, the inventor of animal magnetism,

Near the village of Berlingen the pretty château of the Duchess of Dino appears; and a little further that of Arenaberg, once the residence of the late Duchess of St. Leu (Hortense, ex-Queen of Holland), and of her son Prince Louis (now President Louis Napoleon), before he attempted his futile revolution at Strassburg, and his descent upon Boulogne: since sold to a gentleman of Neuchâtel.

The Castle of Gottlieben, on the 1. of the road, built by the Bishops of Constance 1250, on the Rhine, at the point where it enters the Untersee, is remarkable for having been the prison of John Huss and Jerome of Prague, who were confined within its dungeons by order of the Emperor Sigismund and Pope John XXIII. The latter was himself transferred a few months later to the same prison, by order of the Council of Constance. In 1454 Felix Hämmerlin (Malleolus), the most learned and enlightened man of his time in Switzerland, was also imprisoned here. The building is now private property.

Petershausen, on the rt. bank of the Rhine opposite Constance, was originally a free abbey of the Empire.

31 CONSTANCE. Inns: Brochet (Hecht), best; looking over the lake; very attentive landlord;-Post (Golden Adler; Aigle d'Or), good; - Hôtel Delisle (Golden Löwe), outside the territory of the Customs League, just beyond the gate, at Kreutzlingen, good,

"Mr. Keppler, landlord of the Hecht, is an accomplished fisherman, as well as a civil and attentive host: he has excellent rods, nets, punts, and all appliances for fishing, which he lets out on moderate terms. He has also very extensive water privilege in and around Constance. In short the Angler can find no better quarters in Switzerland than in his house."

Constance, a decayed city, of 7200 Inhab., instead of 40,000, which it once possessed, is remarkable for its antiquity, since its streets and many of its buildings remain unaltered since the 15th century, Although situated on the 1, or Swiss bank of the Rhine, it belongs to Baden. It is connected

with the opposite shore by a long wooden covered bridge, and occupies a projecting angle of ground at the W. extremity of the Bodensee, or lake of Constance; its agreeable position and interesting historical associations make amends for the want of life perceptible within its venerable walls. It has of late, however, revived considerably; the government have formed, at a large expense, a Port on the lake, which facilitates the navigation, while it is an ornament to the town.

The Minster is a handsome Gothic structure, begun 1052, with fine openwork turrets in the W. end; the doors of the main portal between the two towers are of oak, curiously carved with a representation of the Passion of our Lord, executed in 1470 by one Simon Bainder. The nave is supported by sixteen pillars, each of a single block, and dates from the 13th century. The spot where the "Archheretic Huss" stood, as sentence of death by burning was pronounced on him by his unrighteous judges, is still pointed out, Robert Hallam, Bishop of Salisbury, who presided over the English deputation to the council, is buried here, in front of the high altar, "under a tomb, which is very remarkable, as being of English brass, which is fully proved by the workmanship. It was probably sent over from England by his executors. He wears the Order of the Garter. Beneath the ch. is a very ancient crypt, with passage leading from it towards the river. Two sides of the ancient cloisters, whose arches are filled in with beautiful tracery, are yet standing. By the side of the cathedral is a circular chapel, perhaps a baptistery, in the centre of which is a Gothic Holy Sepulchre.

There are some curious relics in the Sacristy, also a beautiful Gothic fireplace and piscina. In the Vestry-room above are a range of singular cupboards or presses of carved oak, none of a later date than the xvth century. There is a beautiful view from the tower of the cathedral, W. over the lake and mountains of Tyrol, and E. over the valley of the Rhine,

In the Hall of the Kaufhaus (built 1388, as a warehouse), close to the lake, the Great Council of Constance held its sittings 1414-18, in a large room supported by wooden pillars. That famous assembly, composed, not of bishops alone, like the ancient councils, but of deputies, civil and ecclesiastical, from the whole of Christendom, including princes, cardinals (30), patriarchs (4), archbishops (20), bishops (150), professors of universities and doctors of theology (200), besides a host of ambassadors, inferior prelates, abbots, priors, &c., was convened for the purpose of remedying the abuses of the church; and as those abuses began with its head, the proceedings were prefaced by a declaration that a council of the church has received, by Divine right, an authority in religious matters, even over that of the pope. It exerted its influence in curbing the Papal power, by deposing the infamous John XXIII. and Benedict XIII., and by electing in their place Martin V. But there is one act of this council which fixes lasting and odious celebrity on it-the treacherous seizure and cruel murder of John Huss and Jerome of Prague, in spite of the safe-conduct granted to the former by the Emperor Sigismund, the president of the assembly.

The chairs occupied by the Emperor and Pope, a model of the dungeon, now destroyed, in which Huss was confined, of the same size as the original, and in which the actual door and other fragments have been incor

The house in which Huss lodged, bearing a rude likeness of him, is pointed out in the Paul's Strasse, near the Schnetzthor. He was thrown into prison, soon after his arrival, in the Franciscan Convent, now a ruin, whence he was removed to a more irksome dungeon, affording scarcely room to move, in the before mentioned Dominican Convent.

The field, outside of the town, in the suburb of Brühl, in which he suffered martyrdom, with a fortitude which moved even his judges and executioners to admiration-nay, even the place where the stake was planted, are still pointed out; and rude images of Huss and Jerome, formed of clay taken from the spot, are offered for sale to the stranger.

In 1474 a perpetual treaty of peace was concluded at Constance between Sigismund of Austria and the Swiss Confederation, which put an end to the contest for Swiss freedom, which began with the fight of Morgarten and ended with that of Sempach. Constance belonged to the crown of Austria from 1549 to 1805, when, by the treaty of Presburg, it was transferred to Baden. Since 1802 it has ceased to be a bishopric. The spirit of industry is reviving, and several manufactories of cotton, two of muslin, and one of silk, have sprung up.

Here is a capital Swimming Bath at the Ecole de Natation in the midst of the lake, approached by a long plank bridge, at the end of which, stuck up in large letters visible far off, may be read the temperature of the waters.

Excursions may be made hence; to Reichenau (p. 21), Meinau, and Heiligenberg. The island of Meinau, about 4 m, N. of Constance, is a well-culti