In the year 1435, it is recorded that a part of the foundations of the town, weakened probably by an attempt to draw off part of the water of the lake, gave way, whereby two streets, built on the ground nearest the water, were broken off and submerged; 26 houses were destroyed, and 45 human beings perished; among them the chief magistrate of the town. His child, an

ROUTE 16.

Diligences go daily from Zug to Lucerne and Zürich; but they do not take the road by Arth.

The Lake of Zug, whose surface is 1340 feet above the sea, is 8 m. long, and about & broad. Its banks are low, or gently-sloping hills, except on the S. side, where the Righi, rising abruptly from the water's edge, presents its precipices towards it, forming a feature of considerable grandeur, in conjunction with the Pilatus rising behind it. The Rufi, or Ross-berg, rising in the S.E. corner, is also lofty and steep; the lake, at its base, is not less than 1200 ft. deep. A capital carriageroad has been formed along the waterside from Zug to Arth and Immensee. Boats are to be found at all these places, and the fare across, with two rowers, is 15 or 20 batz. It takes about two hours to go by water to Arth. The road to Arth winds round the base of the Rossberg, which has obtained a melancholy celebrity from the catastrophe caused by the fall of a portion of it. (See Rte. 17.) Near the chapel of St. Adrian a small monument has been erected on the spot where the arrow is supposed to have fallen which Henry von Hunenberg shot out of the Austrian lines into the Swiss camp, before the battle of Morgarten, bearing the warning words, "Beware of Morgarten." It was in consequence of this that the confederates occupied the position indicated, and it contributed mainly to their victory on that memorable field. Morgarten (R. 74.) lies within this canton, about 14 m. W. of Zug, on the lake of Egeri.

BY HAUSEN AND ZUG.

10 leagues 325 Eng. m.
A diligence daily in 7 hrs.

The high chain of the Albis intervenes between Zürich and Lucerne, running nearly parallel with the lake of Zürich.

This new carriage-road to Zug, excellent throughout, crosses the High Albis, being carried up the steep mountain side, in inclined terraces or zigzags, so that, unless a carriage be very heavy, only 2 horses will be required to surmount it. This line of route is remarkable for the very beautiful view of the chain of the Alps, and of a large part of Switzerland, which is seen from its summit. It skirts the shore of the lake at first, but at Adliswyl it crosses the river Sihl, and ascends to the

2 Albis Wirthshaus, or Inn of the Albis, which affords moderate fare and accommodation, and a magnificent prospect. The best point, however, for seeing the view, is the Signal (Hochwach, called also Schnabel), a height off the road, about a mile above the inn: it takes in nearly the whole of the Zürichsee. At the foot of the mountain, between it and the lake, the vale of the Sihl intervenes. Its wooded slopes were the favourite retreat of the pastoral poet Gessner; they were occupied in 1799 by two hostile armies that of the French under Massena, who encamped on the slope of the Albis, and that of the Russians, who occupied the rt. bank of the Sihl. They watched each other from hence for more than 3 months; until Massena, by a masterly movement, crossed the Limmat, cut off part of the Russian force, and compelled

His body, when recognised by his foes, was burnt by the common hangman, and even his ashes subjected to the vilest indignities that malice could suggest. A handsome monument, consisting of a rough massive block of stone by the road-side, has taken the place of the tree which marked the spot where he fell. It bears, on metal plates, inscriptions in German and Latin. The Gothic church of Kappel, anciently attached to a convent suppressed soon after the commencement of the Reformation, was built in 1280.

the rest to a hasty retreat. On the S. are seen the little lake of Turl (Turler See), at the foot of the mountain; not far from it the church of Kappel, where Zwingli died; farther off the lake of Zug, and behind it tower the Righi and Pilatus mountains, disclosing between them a little bit of the lake of Lucerne. The grandest feature, however, of the view is the snowy chain of the Alps, from the Sentis to the Jungfrau, which fills up the horizon. It has been engraved by Keller. The greatest height which the road attains is 2404 ft. above the sea, 1000 ft. above the lake, after which it descends, passing on the rt. the little lake of Turl.

The new line of road is carried along the W. slope of the Albis, from its summit to Hausen, near which village is Albisbrunn, a large, new, and handsome water-cure establishment, in which travellers in general are also received at the rate of 5 fr. a day, board and lodging. It is a pleasant residence from the beauties of its situation, its views of the Bernese Alps, and the salubrity of its air and water. It is under the management of Dr. Brunner.

Beyond Hausen the new road passes Kappel (5 m. from the Albis inn), a village of 600 Inhab., which has obtained a woful celebrity in Swiss history as the spot where the Confederates, embittered against each other by religious discord, dyed their hands in the blood of one another, and where Zwingli the reformer fell in the midst of his flock on the 11th of October, 1531. Many of the best and bravest of the citizens of Zürich perished on that day of civil broil, overpowered by the numbers of their opponents, the men of the 4 inner cantons. Zwingli, who, in accordance with the custom of the time and country, attended his flock to the field of battle, to afford them spiritual aid and consolation, was struck down in the fight, and found by a soldier of Unterwalden, who did not know him, but who, ascertaining that he refused to call on the Virgin and saints, despatched him with his sword as a dog and a heretic.

The coach-road to Lucerne proceeds by Rifferschwyl to

24 Knonau (Inn: im Schloss, decent to dine at). Next by Rümeltiken and

1 St. Wolfgang-where a good carriage-road turns off on the left to Zug and the Righi: it proceeds along the banks of the Reuss to

2 Gysliker-Brücke, Dierikon, Ebikon, and passing near the monument of the Swiss Guards (p. 38),

enters

Inns: H

25 LUCERNE (Luzern). des Suisses (Schweitzer Hof), facing the lake; views from its windows superb: one of the largest and best Inns in Switzerland; civil people. Schwan;-Balances (Waage). Eschmans' Pension, overlooking the lake, close to the Kapell Brücke, is recommended: the master obliging; charge 6 fr. a day.

Lucerne, chief town of the canton, lies at the N.W. extremity of the lake of Lucerne, and is divided into two parts by the river Reuss, which here issues out of it. Its population is about 8339, all Roman Catholics, except about 180 Protestants. Lucerne is the residence of the Papal Nuncio.

It is not a place of any considerable trade or manufactures, but their absence is more than compensated by the beautiful scenery in which it is situated on the borders of the finest and most interesting of the Swiss lakes, between the giants Pilatus and Righi, and in sight of the snowy Alps of Schwytz and Engelberg, The town is

still surrounded by a very picturesque circle of feudal watch-towers, and is walled in on the land side; but its chief peculiarity is the number and length of its bridges. The lowest, or Mill-bridge, is hung with paintings, nearly washed out, of the Dance of Death: the second or Reussbrücke, is the only one uncovered and passable for carriages; the upper, or Kapell-brücke, runs in a slanting direction across the mouth of the Reuss, whose clear and pellucid sea-green waters may here be surveyed to great advantage, as they rush beneath it with the swiftness of a mountain torrent. Against the timbers supporting the roof of this bridge are suspended 77 pictures; those seen in crossing from the rt. to the 1. bank represent the life and acts of St. Leger and St. Maurice, Lucerne's patron saints. The subjects of those seen in the opposite direction are taken from Swiss history, and are not without some merits, but being lighted only by the glare reflected upwards from the water, are not easily distinguished. Near the middle of the Kapell-brücke, rising out of the water, stands a very picturesque watch-tower, called Wasserthurm, forming a link of the feudal fortifications of the town. It is said to have once served as a light-house (Lucerna) to boats entering the Reuss, and hence some have derived the present name of Lucerne. The Hofbrücke, the longest of all the bridges, was originally 1380 ft. long, but has lost 300 feet since 1835. It extends across the lake, within a few feet of the shore, to the church of St. Leodegar, and the Convent and Court (Hof) of its former abbots. The paintings in its roof illustrate the Scripture.

"Lessons for every heart; a Bible for all eyes.

It commands a charming view of the lake, the Alps, the Righi, and the Pilatus. Near the middle of it is an index painted on a board, the diverging lines of which point to the different mountains and peaks visible from hence, each of which is named for the convenience of strangers. A considerable portion of ground has been gained from the lake by curtailing this bridge, and throwing out a sort of

quay. This bridge is about to be entirely removed: the intervening space between it and the shore has been partly filled up. The Hôtel des Suisses and Swan stand on this space, which is also the landing-place of the steamboats.

In churches and other public buildings Lucerne has no very prominent objects. The church of St. Leger, also called Hof-, or Stiftskirche, is modern, except the two towers, which date from 1506. The adjoining churchyard is filled with quaint old monuments, and the view from the cloister windows is fine.

The Arsenal, near the gate leading to Berne, is one of those venerable repositories common to the chief towns of all the cantons, in which are deposited the muskets, artillery, &c., for arming their contingents of troops. It contains some rusty suits of ancient armour, and several historical relics and trophies of Swiss valour, such as the yellow Austrian banner, and many pennons of knights and nobles, taken at the battle of Sempach; the coat of mail stripped from the body of Duke Leopold of Austria, who fell there : the iron cravat, lined with sharp spikes, destined for the neck of Gundoldingen, the Schultheiss and general of the men of Lucerne, who died in the hour of victory. A sword of William Tell, and a battle-axe borne by Ulric Zwingli, at the battle of Kappel (p. 36), are of very doubtful authenticity though the malice of the enemies of Zwingli may have led to the assertion that he took active part in the fight, it is believed that he assisted his countrymen merely with exhortations and consolations of religion. Several Turkish standards deposited here were captured at the battle of Lepanto, by a knight of Malta, who was a native of Lucerne.

General Pfyffer's model (in relief) of a part of Switzerland may interest those who desire to trace on it their past or future wanderings; but it is not so extensive nor so well made as that at Zürich; besides which 1 fr. 50 c. is demanded for admission decidedly more than it is worth. The

Gothic Fountains, which are to be observed in all parts of Switzerland, are here of singular beauty and originality.

The English church service is performed every Sunday at 11 and 6 in the German Protestant church. The clergyman depends entirely on voluntary contributions of visitors, having no stipend.

water, trickling down from the top of the rock, is received into a basinshaped hollow below it, forming a mirror in which the sculpture is reflected. One of the very few survivors of the Swiss Guard, dressed in its red uniform, acts as guardian of the monument, and cicerone to the stranger. The cloth for the altar of the little chapel adjoining was embroidered expressly for it by the Duchess d'Angoulême.

One of the most interesting of the sights of Lucerne is, without doubt, the Monument to the memory of the Swiss Guards, who fell while defending the Royal Family of France in the bloody massacre of the French Revolution, August 10, 1792. It is situated in the garden of General Pfyffer, less than of a mile outside the Weggis gate. The design is by Thorwaldsen, executed by Ahorn, a sculptor of Constance. It represents a lion of colossal size, wounded to death, with a spear sticking in his side, yet endeavouring in his last gasp to protect from injury a shield bearing the fleurde-lis of the Bourbons, which he holds in his paws. The figure, hewn out of the living sandstone rock, is 28 ft. long and 18 high, and whether as a tribute to fallen valour, or as a work of art, of no mean design and execution, it merits very great praise. Beneath it are carved the names of the officers who fell in defending the Tuileries, Aug. 10 and Sept. 2 and 3, 1792. The loyalty and fidelity of this brave band, who thus sacrificed their lives for their adopted sovereign, almost make us forget that they were mercenaries, especially standing forward as they did, as the protectors of Louis and his family, at a moment when deserted or attacked by his natural defenders, his own subjects. There is a quiet solitude and shade about the spot which is particularly pleasing and refreshing. The rocks around are mantled with fern and creepers, forming a natural framework to the monument; and a streamlet of clear

There are many pretty walks and

most interesting is to the Lime-tree, under which is a dial pointing to the mountains on the horizon; another is the villa called Allenwinden, perched on the top of the hill outside the Weggis gate, from which it may be reached in a walk of 15 minutes, by a path winding up the hill outside the town walls.

Gibraltar--a height on the opposite side of the Reuss, outside the Basle gate, also commands a fine prospect.

Mount Righi, so celebrated for its panoramic view, is about 10 miles from Lucerne. To reach the summit will occupy 4 hours, taking the steamer to Weggis, in 1 hour, and 3 thence to the top, so that travellers may regulate their departure accordingly, remembering that it is of much consequence to arrive at the top before sunset. There are several ways to it, by land, to Küssnacht and Arth; or by water to Weggis. (See Route 17.) Travellers going from Lucerne by the St. Gothard and Grimsel to the Oberland of Berne may send round their carriages to meet them at Thun. (See p. 67.)

No one should leave Lucerne without exploring the beauties of its Lake -called in German Vierwaldstädter See-the grandest in Europe in point of scenery, particularly the farther end of it, called the bay of Uri; and much additional pleasure will be derived if the traveller who understands German will take Schiller's "Wilhelm Tell" as a pocket companion, in which admirable poem so many of the scenes are localized. (Route 18.)

Those who intend to traverse the

lake, and visit the Righi, and to return afterwards to Lucerne, should combine the two expeditions, which may be effected in two days, thus go by land to Arth, or by water to Weggis, descending next day on the opposite side, and embarking on the lake, either at Weggis or Brunnen; pass up the bay of Uri, and by Tell's chapel, returning by water to Lucerne the 2nd evening.

A steamer plies thrice a-day in summer between Lucerne and Flüelen, calling at the intermediate places. Further particulars respecting it, and the hire of boats, are given in Rte. 18.

DILIGENCES go twice a-day from Lucerne to Aarau; Bâle; Berne, by Summiswald, and by Entlibuch; Soleure; Zug and Zürich; to St. Gall by Schwytz, and Utznach. Courier to Milan over the St. Gothard, daily, by steamer to Flüelen (Rte. 34).

Mount Pilate is sometimes ascended from Lucerne, but the journey is difficult and in places dangerous, occupying 6 or 7 hrs.; the greater part must be performed on foot, and the view from the top is decidedly inferior to that from the Righi. The path up it from Lucerne proceeds in a S.W. direction, by the side of a wild torrent, which, when swollen by rain, is very injurious to the habitations on its banks; and in the last century destroyed many houses in the town. Skirting the ase of the mountain, it passes through the hamlets of Krienz, Obernau, and Herrgotteswald; then, crossing a ridge covered with pasturages, descends into the Alpine valley of Eigenthal. Beyond this the path becomes steeper, and is only practicable on foot. It takes nearly 5 hrs. to reach the Châlets on the Bründlen or Bründlis Alp, the highest habitation, occupied by shepherds only in the summer months. The traveller may here obtain shelter for the night, but nothing deserving the name of accommodation. There is a very remarkable echo near the Bründlis Alp. Above this vegetation ceases, and naked rock succeeds. A cave in the face of the precipice, near this, is

called St. Dominick's Hole, from a fancied resemblance in a stone, standing near its mouth, to a monk. The cavern was reached, in 1814, by a chamois hunter, Ignacius Matt, at the risk of his life.

The Tomlishorn, the highest peak of the mountain, is 5766 feet above the lake, and 7116 feet above the sealevel; but the view from it is said to be inferior to that from another peak, the Esel (ass). There is another path from the summit down the opposite side of the mountain, by which Alpnach may be reached in 3 hrs.

According to a wild tradition of considerable antiquity, this mountain derives its name from Pilate, the wicked governor of Judæa, who, having been banished to Gaul by Tiberius, wandered about among the mountains, stricken by conscience, until he ended his miserable existence by throwing himself into a lake on the top of the Pilatus. The mountain, in consequence, labours under a very bad reputation. From its position as an outlier, or advanced guard of the chain of the Alps, it collects all the clouds which float over the plains from the W. and N.; and it is remarked that almost all the storms which burst upon the lake of Lucerne gather and brew on its summit. This almost perpetual assembling of clouds was long attributed by the superstitious to the unquiet spirit still hovering round the sunken body, which, when disturbed by any intruder, especially by the casting of stones into the lake, revenged itself by sending storms, and darkness, and hail on the surrounding district. So prevalent was the belief in this superstition, even down to times comparatively recent, that the government of Lucerne forbade the ascent of the mountain, and the naturalist Conrad Gessner, in 1555, was obliged to provide himself with a special order, removing the interdict in his case, to enable him to carry on his researches upon the mountain.

The lake, the source of all this terror, turns out, from recent investigation, to be beyond the limits of