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Another room worthy of notice was the Citizen's Salle a manger, where he usually dines, en famille, and with private friends; it is a very elegant room, lately fitted up with sexagon ends, very highly finished with painting, gilding, and very superb lustres and mirrors. The simple Citizen lives in a princely style, with respect to his establishment, his liveries are very magnificent, dark green so covered with gold lace, that very little of the cloth is to be seen, and the liveries of his black servants are an improvement upon this finery, being of green velvet very richly embroidered with gold. And with hypocritical affected abhorrence of every thing princely or superb, Madame has her ladies in waiting, and her maids of honour.

The Palace of the Thuilleries and that of the Louvre are connected by an immense length of building, called the Louvre Gallery, and in this gallery are collected the chef d'œuvres of the whole world, in the arts of painting and sculpture this superb building, the Louvre gallery, which is at present the attraction from all parts of Europe, is about 1,300 feet long, about 800 of which are now partitioned off, for the pictures that are put up: other pictures are preparing and cleaning, when a greater length will be taken in. It is at present a wonderful coup d'ail on entering. On the same floor adjoining is a grand Saloon, for the works of modern artists, like our exhibition renewed yearly, and the Gallery of Apollo, for prints, sketches, models, and miscellaneous productions. The pictures altogether, ancient and modern, will amount to above 2,000; and out of the works of the old artists, 500 pictures are said to be superior to any thing else of the kind in the world. Several of our English artists were there, attracted by this wonderful collection; it is impossible to describe it in detail, as a list and critique of the pictures would be too long for these pages. I can

* Amongst the rest the celebrated Mr West, who has since told us, that they quite oppressed him with their weight of honours and tributes of respect.

only therefore observe, that the pictures are classed in their different Schools: the first, on entering the gallery, is the French School, consisting of Poussin, Le Brun, Le Seur, and several others. The nest is the Flemish School, consisting of Rubeus, Vandyke, Rembrandt, Vanyke, &c. Thirdly, the Italian School, consisting of Raphael, Guido, Titian, Dominichino, Corregio, the Carraccio's, &c. &c.This arrangement was very judicious and interesting.

I perceived after having been there two or three times, that walking through the gallery, and looking on each side, would not in a month's time give me any thing beyond a confused idea on the subject. I therefore confined myself to a certain point, each morning dedicating two or three hours at a time to a single compartment, consisting of about thirty pictures, and with the assistance of a few judicious friends, I began in the course of time to gain a little knowledge of pictures. Some were particularly striking, and among the rest were six-the productions of Raphael, Titian, Dominchino, and Corregio, for which an English Baronet commissioned a friend to offer 60,000l. He was told in answer, that they were above all price. The lower range of buildings on the ground floor are dedicated to statues, ancient and modern; among the rest, are the celebrated Venus de Medicis, the Apollo Belvidere, and the Laocoon.

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Amongst other things that interested and pleased me in Paris, was the management of the different Hospitals which are as numerous as in England, and there is one on a much larger scale than any we have. This hospital is called La Salpetriére, and is an immense establishment, being the general depôt for all the poor women (and women only) in Paris. At one period it contained 9,000 poor, though it does not in general contain more than 6,000. From its extent, i was surprised to find it so well conducted; it is quite a little insulated town, consisting of a number of little courts, squares, and gardens, one within another, all dedicated to

different purposes, The first court, which is as large as the first quadrangle at Christ Church, in Oxford, is dedicated to all those that are in perfect health, and able to earn their livelihood: a variety of manufactures are carried on here, and the healthy and industrious earn more than their own maintenance. The second court, is for those who are sickly, but yet do something; and the third for the old and infirm, and if any of them can earn a trifle, they are allowed to spend it on their extra comforts. The fourth court is the infirmary, where the sick are extremely well taken care of ; and the fifth building, which is not a square, but a cluster of buildings, is for the insane, which is an establishment of itself, and there are different ranges of building, for different states of insanity, with each their own garden, offices, and appendages, and the different classes of patients can never associate or see each other. The incurables are in the farthest building, and they are arranged in succession, according to their degrees of amendment, and in the outer building are placed those who are nearly recovered, and soon to be dismissed. None of the merely nervous and quiet patients are disturbed by the noise and disorder of the rest, and no one is ever admitted into the interior of the building; but from the accounts I received, it appears to be extremely well managed.

This range of buildings occupies more ground that our Bedlam, and the whole establishment I should think as much, if not more than the Tower. The whole had an appearance of order and quietness I could scarcely believe attainable on so large a scale; the ground floor contains the dining-rooms and kitchens, the first floor the work-rooms, and the second the sleeping galleries, very long rooms with beds ranged on each side. Every woman has a separate bed, a box for her cloaths, and a chair to sit on, which she takes care of herself, and is also appionted to attend on some one of the old and infirm.

I could not say much for the cleanliness of the bed-rooms, particularly the wards of the old and infirm, many of whom never being able to move from their bedside, seemed growing in a dirt-heap, but that is the soil in which the French thrive best. I was, however, recompensed by the cleanliness of the dining rooms, which indeed almost bordered on English neatness. I saw their tables laid for dinner, 500 at each table, a coarse but very clean cloth was spread over it, and to each person was placed a napkin, (of the same material as the cloth like our knife cloths) an iron spoon, fork, and wooden trencher, and about a pound of bread. Their dinner smelt very frenchy and savoury, and consisted of stewed spinach and eggs, it was neatly served up, and the whole passed very orderly. The admission into the hospital is without any ceremony or difficulty; any woman presenting herself at the gate, and pleading poverty and distress, is immediately admitted without any recommendation whatever, on condition that she does all the work she can, and conforms strictly to the rules; if ill, she is received into the Infirmary, if well, she is placed among the workers, and made to earn her livelihood, or turned out again, which is a certain proof that none but the idle are beggars in Paris, though indeed, there is another description of beggars there, which exceedingly excited my pity and surprize; whilst walking in the streets, I was accosted by a very genteel middle-aged woman, who joined me, and entered into conversation: she seemed well dressed, though her clothes were rather the worse for wear, she walked the length of the street with me, talking of Paris, and asking me what comparison I drew between that and London. I gave her my opinion on the subject, and at the end of the street, I was taking my leave, when she said to me in a very plaintive tone : "Madam, your nation is celebrated for its generosity, be"stow a trifle upon me, indeed I am in great distress !"—of

course I gave her something more than a trifle, and the poor woman, unused to donations of the amount, seemed surprised.

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Mr. K. was also walking soon after with his handkerchief at his mouth, as a protection from cold, when a well-dressed and respectable looking man stopped him, and said, "Sir, I pity you extremely, you have got the tooth-ach, I think I could cure you." He then proceeded to tell him his plans, and to recommend such and such drugs. Mr. K. thanked him for his civility, and walked on, but he stopped him with great earnestness, and said, "Sir, excuse me, I have not eat one morsel to day." Mr. K. was exceedingly struck, and of course the means of the meal were amply supplied. The cause of this species of beggary seems to have originated in the Revolution, some of the little shopkeepers and artificers having been plundered and thrown out of employment, have too much pride to apply to the hospitals and alms-houses for relief.

We visited another Hospital very different to the Salpetriere, though it interested me much more-it was L'Hospital des Enfans trouvés, something similar to our Foundling Hospital, but entirely for infants; and I was grieved to find it in a declining state, the income falling short of the expences, and wanting the great support of that species of charity, the superintending eye of some person of consequence. It was the late Queen's favourite object, and under her immediate care and patronage, it was the most thriving and beneficial establishment then in Paris : during that period it contained three thousand infants, the number now is very trifling, and many of these, when I saw them, were not doing well. The establishment is now divided; the Lying-in Hospital is a separate building in a different street: here the women are received a month before their accouchement, and kept a month after, and if they are unable to maintain the child, it is sent, at 15 days old, to this

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