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drapery across the bust is partially left open, before it wraps over, is a chemisette tucker of Japanese gauze, edged with narrow blond. The sleeves are short, and very full; rather confined in the middle by a row of diamonds, the same as those formed by the treillage work on the fluted border. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side the face, with a bow on the summit formed of three puffs of hair, which are very highly elevated. At the base of this bow, is a coronet ornament of white and gold enamel. The ear-pendants are d l'antique, en girandoles; and are composed of three drops in rubies: the necklace is formed of three rows of pearls and rubies intermingled, with three waluable drop-rubies in the centre. Bracelets of dark hair, and cameos, worn over the gloves.
of the weather, we felt ourselves gratified : in performing the task allotted us, and || now hasten, with alacrity, to lay before || our kind patronesses an account of the several different articles which form the toilet of a modern belle. The most elegant silk pelisse we have seen is of gros de Naples, the colour, a bright ruby, lined throughout with white satin. The sleeves, en gigot, as to form, but not so wide, nor so much stiffened at the shoulders as they were worn the last two months. This pelisse is finished by a bias fold round the border, and is ornamented down each side, in the same man- || ner, where it closes in front. A temporary pelerine cape, slightly wadded, is worn with almost every pelisse, and is of the same material. The mantles or cloaks are beautifully cut, and now improve the form,
instead of obscuring it. Many of them No. 38.-Vol. VII.
have sleeves attached to the arm-holes, which have a much more graceful effect than the draperies à la Perse; the black velvet pelerine capes now almost universally adopted with cloaks, are justly admired; on brown, grey, or any light colours, they are truly elegant. Russian fur mantelets are in high favour over pelisses, or high dresses of merino, or British cachemire; the former material, however, from being more rare, is more fashionable. Some round pelerines have been seen on merino dresses, of the same colour and material as the gown: these are trimmed round with very dark fur, and are made in the same form, and of the same size as a Russian mantelet, nearly touching the eibow.
The bonnets, in spite of their outré size, which still continues, are of a most beautiful shape, and many faces look well in them, but to some they are disfiguring: we have seen one of black velvet, so tasteful in its simple ornaments, and sitting so well on the head, and next the face, that we could not but admire it; though if it had been a degree or two smaller, it would, certainly, have been an improvement. A white satin one, of the same becoming shape, came also under our inspection. It has been just completed for a lady about to enter the hymeneal state. This was still larger; and its magnitude was increased by a very broad blond at the edge, of a most rich and splendid pat
term. This, we thought, was a pity; as
the lady was a little woman. However, as she was pretty, and tried on her bonnet with much taste, she looked extremely well in the parapluie kind of head-covering. Black velvet bonnets are very general; but even when the ornaments, as well as the bonnet, are black, the strings are invariably coloured: they consist of a very broad, richly-figured ribbon, generally on a scarlet ground, which, crossed, and tied
very slightly under the chin, present, as they lie on the bust, the appearance of a
cravat-scarf. Some ladies, however, do not content themselves with coloured strings only ; but have immense puffs of the same ribbon mingled among those of velvet; and these, when the loops are not enormously long, which is too often the
case, look well, and enliven the sombre K
appearance of the black hat or bonnet. Feathers of the weeping-willow kind, or two or three elegant esprit feathers, form the favourite ornaments on the carriage hats; and though some young females place richly-coloured flowers, appropriate to winter, in their black bonnets, they are by no means general. The black velvet bonnets described above are much more fashionable for promenade costume. Coloured silk and satin bonnets are only partially worn. We have seen one on the head of a lady of high fashion, of yellow satin; the crown almost covered with puffs of chequered ribbon, black, on a yellow ground: the bonnet was large, but of a very becoming shape, and was confined closely under the chim by strings the same as the ribbon which trimmed the crown. The most prevalent fashion is to have the hat or bonnet tied under the chin by either a narrow ribbon, or a mentonmière of white blond quilled on satin, which comes rather forward, like the strap confining the cap of a lancer. The ornamental string hangs beneath in a very long loop, and is of broad, rich ribbon; if coloured ribbon is used in decorating the crown, then these loops are always of the same material. Black, for dresses, still is in high favour, of every material that issues from the loom of the weaver, or the frame of the lace-maker. Next to this, particularly for half-dress, is grey, of the most beautiful shades, in gros de Naples, or satin. The most admired are the lapis and the lavender-grey. Dresses of Cyprus crape, elegantly figured, are a charming article for evening and dress dinner parties; and, that the beauty of these valuable robes may not be obscured by heavy trimming, they are simply finished round the border by a full riche. The corsage is made plain, to fit the shape, and being low, the tucker part is surrounded by a broad falling tucker of blond. The sleeves are long, and are confined at the wrists by two bracelets; one of onyx stones; each onyx separated by delicate chain-work or filagree, in gold. Over this is a splendid gold braceletinjoints. These dresses of Cypruscrape are most admired, when either of a bright Indian red, or ethereal blue. Dresses of coloured gros de Naples have generally white long sleeves of tulle, Ja
panese gauze, or crape. Watered gros de Naples robes, of a beautiful pearl grey, are much in request at evening parties. We have seen one just completed for a lady of distinction, delicately and lightly embroidered with dead gold; and the watered silk, combined with this embroidery, had the most beautiful effect imaginable by candlelight. At a short distance the dress appeared, as if formed of fine lace. It is astonishing to see how much chintzes are still in favour for morning attire, and even for home costume. Superb bracelets, and elegant turbans, are worm with them ; and they are often retained to receive relatives and very intimate friends at small dinner parties. White satin dresses, trimmed with festoons of blond, prevail much at evening parties; and the ball-dresses are chiefly of gauze, richly figured, both white and coloured. The Armenian turban of white crape and gold fringe, is a favourite head-dress, and a most dignified and appropriate one for matronly ladies. Large beret-turbans, also, of coloured gauze, are much in request. Caps, for receiving dinner parties at home, are of the turban-kind, with strings floating. They are of very fine lace, or blond, and are adorned with beautiful sprigs of flowers, always of the colour, or suitable to the dress. To this we cannot but object, when the dress is red; especially as these flowers are without green foliage. If a lady is not very good tempered, and happens to have ill luck at cards, it is apt to impart a furioso look to her visage; and it is, at all times, gaudy, and in bad taste. Young persons ornament their hair with diadem combs of very splendid workmanship. Polished steel is again in favour for this purpose. These combs have the gallery part most beautifully set and wrought; and, by candlelight, these well-cut ornaments rival the finest brilliants: that part of the comb being now so much elevated, they form a most distinguishing appendage to evening costume. We cannot reconcile ourselves to the gold and silver ribbons often worn in bows on the hair of young ladies; except those of hair-coloured gauze and gold, they have a paltry appearance. The newest dress-hat which has yet been
seen is of white crape, elegantly ornament